SALE ON LAVENDER, PERENNIALS, CRAPE MYRTLE

LAVENDER ON SALE – $5.95 EACH, ONE GALLON SIZE.
Hidcote Blue, Phenomenal, Munstead, Madrid Purple.

CRAPE MYRTLE ON SALE – $19.50 EACH, MULTI TRUNK BUSH FORM, FIVE GALLON SIZE.
Tuscarora, Natchez, Muskogee.

ASSORTED PERENNIALS – $5.95 EACH, ONE GALLON SIZE.
Large selection to choose from.

All sale prices are limited to stock on hand. Sale prices good through 7/31/21.

Hope to see you soon,
Jeff


July 2021 Newsletter

ONE GALLON PERENNIALS ON SALE – $5.95 EA. ALL IN FULL BLOOM NOW. ADD COLOR TO YOUR LANDSCAPE. PERENNIALS COME BACK YEAR AFTER YEAR AND BLOOM IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER. ONE GALLON LAVENDER, $7.95 EACH. 5 VARIETIES TO CHOOSE FROM. FIVE GALLON CRAPE MYRTLE MULTI TRUNK BUSH FORM, $19.50 EACH. TUSCARORA, NATCHEZ, DYNAMITE, AND MUSKOGEE.

With summer here and longer days, it gives a lot of time for gardening. Do your planting early in the day or in the evening if possible so it is easier on you. Plants will handle the transplant just fine but do make sure you give additional water for the first week or two after planting to make sure it is kept well hydrated. Also be sure to mulch to hold the moisture in the ground. Water the new planting well, and then water in with Superthrive mixed in water. This will eliminate any transplant shock that may occur. Keep the plant moist but not soggy while it is getting it’s root system established. If you are using a timed drip system that runs for very short periods, you will need to supplement with a hose periodically. A slow trickle for an hour or two works well about once or twice a week along with the drip system. Mulch well around your trees and shrubs to keep the moisture in the ground. Use 3″ of mulch.

On the subject of watering whether newly planted or established plantings, when there is a spike in temperatures coming, be sure to give extra water. Make sure all shrubs and trees are well watered going into the temperature spike rather than waiting till afterwards. Sometimes the stress on the plant will be too much if too dry. Signs of not enough water will include crisp edges of leaves, wilting in the heat and perhaps shedding some foliage soon after extreme heat. If you see any of these symptoms, you probably should increase the amount of water or mulch or perhaps a combination of the two. If you see any stress on your plants, treat them with Superthrive mixed with water. This product eliminates transplant shock and also revives plants under stress. We do all of our transplanting here at the nursery during the summer months and we use Superthrive on all of our transplants and cuttings that we do.

Crape myrtles are now starting to bloom here and in landscapes. They love the heat. Although crape myrtle is a very drought tolerant plant, it will bloom much nicer with at least one good deep soak a week. Also spray for aphids if you see sticky shiny leaves. Use neem oil or an insecticide or insecticidal soap. Any of these are better sprayed in the evening so that there is no damage to the leaves from the heat of the day.

Vegetable gardens probably need fertilizing about now. If you fertilized when you planted, it’s about time to give the garden another fertilizing and then again sometime in August to keep your plants healthy and productive. Use a vegetable fertilizer for this. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers as they will cause growth at the expense of production. Organic vegetable fertilizers work well because they feed slowly and there is less chance of burning the plants in warm weather. Mulch your garden too, to hold the moisture in and use less water. If you are experiencing blossom end rot on your tomatoes and squash, add calcium to your soil. We carry oyster shell and bone meal to add calcium to the soil.

Watch for tomato worms. If you see them, use BT or Monterey Garden Insect Spray to get rid of them. Both are organic controls. Or just pull them off and get rid of them.

Hopefully the weather continues with cool mornings. Get out early and enjoy the cool of the morning and do some gardening. It’s a great way to start the day.

We will be closed on The 4th of July.

We hope to see you soon,
Jeff

 


June 2021 Newsletter

June started off HOT but it looks like the next two weeks will be much more seasonable. Next week is mid to upper 80’s for highs and nice cool overnight temperatures. Great time of the year to get out early and do gardening and planting. Water things well and then let them go through the rest of the day.

WATERING

It’s time to pay close attention to watering. Deep soaking and watering early are the best practices. When watering trees, be sure to give established trees a deep soak once or twice a week depending on temperatures. Newly planted trees should be watered daily for the first week or so then cut back to about two or three times per week. Do not give short daily watering. Give good deep soaks. A good rule to use is to give 10 gallons of water per week for every inch of trunk diameter and be sure to soak to a depth of at least 12 inches. On larger trees you’ll want to soak to a depth of 2 to 3 feet. Use slow drip and let it run long enough to soak deep. Add 3″ of mulch around your trees and shrubs to hold the moisture in the ground and not allow it to evaporate. Mulching garden beds and vegetable gardens should also be done. Deep soaking and mulching encourages a deep healthy root system so that trees and shrubs and new plantings can go through hot spells with no adverse effects on the plant and you will use less water.

FERTILIZING

It’s time for your second fertilizing of the season if you have not done it already. Use a balanced fertilizer for most trees and shrubs. Be sure to water your plants well the day before you are going to fertilize and then fertilize and water the fertilizer in well. DO NOT fertilize on a very hot day. It is very easy to burn plants with fertilizer if you fertilize on a very hot day. Nitrogen portion of the fertilizer moves with water and plants are moving lots of water in the heat. Fertilize in the evening and look for temperatures in low to mid 90’s as a high or less for fertilizing. Fertilize citrus trees monthly through the growing season. Use a citrus and avocado fertilizer. Rhododendrons azaleas and camellias are about due for their third and final fertilizing. They are fertilized 3 times, each 30 days apart, after they are done blooming.

JUNE SPECIAL

#1 GALLON PERENNIALS $5.95 EACH

Yarrow, Rudbeckia, Coreopsis, Gaura, Verbena, Gaillardia, Lantana, Salvia, Agastache, and more.

CITRUS LEAF MINER

Citrus Leaf Miner can be a problem for citrus trees. It looks a bit like snail tracks in the leaf of the citrus tree and affects primarily the new growth. The new growth curls and looks shriveled with lines looking like snail trails in them. Treat this with Monterey Garden Insect Spray. We carry it. The active ingredient is Spinosad. It is OMRI listed for organic gardening. It is absorbed into the leaf and kills the leaf miner. We spray and then wait a few days and prune out the affected area. Treatment can be done weekly. This will take care of the problem.

MULCH MULCH MULCH

Be sure to mulch all new plantings and re mulch older plants. Use 3″ of mulch around your plants. Keep the mulch away from the immediate base of the plant. Mulching keeps the ground and roots of your plants cooler and holds the moisture in the soil. New plantings will do much better, no matter what the temperature, if they are watered well and mulch is used. You can cut your water use by up to 50% by mulching and your plants will do so much better. You can use shredded bark or chunk bark or compost or even gravel will work as mulch but gravel will reflect heat onto your plants so keep that in mind. If you aren’t mulching, I would strongly advise that you do. Your plants will get through hot spells with no adverse effects, you will use less water and still have healthy happy plants. With mulching, you can plant any time of the year with no adverse effects. IT REALLY HELPS!

BLOSSOM END ROT

If you experience blossom end rot on tomatoes and squash, you want to add calcium to the soil. The bottom of the tomato and the ends of the squash will shrivel and become brown or black. If you add calcium at the first sign of this, the problem will be corrected fairly quickly.

APHIDS AND FUNGUS PROBLEMS

Aphids have been bad already this soring and will continue to be bad as the weather warms. For control of aphids, Neem Oil works well and is an organic pesticide. It also works as a fungicide so it does double duty. Use it every two weeks on roses and control aphids and fungus such as powdery mildew, rust and blackspot. It will also control aphids and powdery mildew on Crape Myrtles. We also have a product called Monterey Take Down Garden Spray. It is not organic but it works very well for controlling aphids and other insects. It is pyrethrin and canola oil. With all insecticides, be careful not to spray when bees are present. Better to spray late evening or very early morning when bees are not active, to avoid injuring bees.

HOURS ARE 9 TO 5 MONDAY – SATURDAY, 10-4 SUNDAY.

We are open everyday. Monday through Saturday from 9 to 5 and Sunday from 10 to 4..

We’ve had a very nice spring this year which the plants really have liked. The inventory is full and looking good. All of our plants are fully acclimated to our climate. We don’t protect them under shade cloth so they can go into your landscape and not miss a beat because they are used to the weather. We do keep shade loving plants in the shade here at the nursery. If for some reason we don’t have what you are looking for, we can order it and usually have it here in a week.

This time of year here at the nursery we start doing lots of cleaning and maintenance in our growing ground. We shift plants from smaller pots to larger pots to grow. We will be cleaning mats and we will have many one of a kind or overstock items going into the parking lot reduced price area over the next few weeks. Be sure to check it out when you come in. You may find a great price on a plant you could use.

Enjoy life in your garden.

We hope to see you soon.

Jeff


AVOCADO TREES ARE NOW IN!

AVOCADO TREES ARE NOW IN!!

We just received our Avocado Trees. We’ve got 100 in stock to choose from.

  • Bacon – Type B
  • Mexicola Grande – Type A
  • Zutano – Type B
  • Haas – Type A

Avocado trees are semi self fruitful. So one tree will give you fruit. If you plant a type A, and a Type B together, you will get larger crops of fruit.

Avocados need good drainage for best performance. Amend the soil liberally to give rich well drained soil.

All trees are $39.00 each.


April 2021 Newsletter

April started off a little warmer than average but now seems to be running along just like it should temperature wise. Not too cool and not too warm.

We now have a large selection of vegetable starts and more coming on in our greenhouse, plus regular deliveries, so we will have a good selection of vegetables for the planting season. This month is usually a good time to get started with the vegetable garden. Get it prepped if you haven’t done that yet so you can plant your vegetable starts soon. I always use Bio-Live fertilizer and bone meal and kelp meal mixed in the soil before I plant. Bone meal adds calcium to prevent blossom end rot. You can also use oyster shell lime. Kelp meal helps with disease prevention. After you have your plants in, use straw or mulch on the top to help keep the moisture in and keep the weeds down.

Many other things are needing to be done in the landscape during April.

Rhododendrons should have the flower trusses that are spent snapped off at the base as soon as they fade. Don’t wait until all the flowers have finished blooming to remove them because the plant will expend energy making seeds that would be better used to add new foliage when it has completed the bloom cycle. Fertilize them right after flowering with a rhododendron azalea camellia fertilizer now and then again in 30 days and a final time 30 days after that. The same treatment applies to azaleas when they are done blooming.

Daffodils that were blooming earlier are now done here at the nursery. After they are done blooming, don’t cut off the leaves while they are still green. While the leaves are green, fertilize them with a high phosphorous fertilizer or one labeled “bulb food”. They bloomed early this year, but here at the nursery the leaves are still green and the fertilizing can still be done. Hopefully it is the same with yours. The old leaves can be pulled up when they have turned yellow or brown.

If you haven’t fertilized yet, it is time to do it. With the cool temperatures it is an excellent time to fertilize your landscape. An all purpose fertilizer will work for trees and shrubs. Citrus fertilizer for citrus trees. And an acid fertilizer for rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias as well as blueberries. Be sure to water your plants well the day before you apply the fertilizer. Never fertilize a dry plant. Nitrogen part of fertilizer moves with water and if the plant is dry, it can pull up too much nitrogen when you water after applying the fertilizer and burn the plant. If it is moist and the fertilizer is applied and watered in, the plant pulls it up slowly since it is not thirsty.

Keep on top of the aphid problems and the fungus. Spray with Neem oil or an insecticidal soap if you have aphids. Neem oil works as a fungicide too.

I would recommend you start spraying your roses for fungus problems now before they appear. Use Neem oil or a fungicide on them on a regular basis to prevent the fungus from getting started. Neem oil will also act as an insecticide and prevent the aphid problem. We are starting to spray weekly here.

If you planted any bare root fruit trees this year or last year, the trunks of the trees should be painted with white tree trunk paint so that the young, thin bark does not become sunburned and cracked allowing insects to damage the cambium layer which carries nutrients to all parts of the tree. Do not use an oil based paint. A light colored, water based latex paint diluted by 50% works well.

Lawns should be fertilized with a lawn food, which will be high in nitrogen. You may want to over seed your lawn area to thicken it up a bit, and that can be done as long as your fertilizer does not have a weed control incorporated in the formula which would keep seed from sprouting. It is also a good time for starting a new lawn – before the weather heats up making it difficult to keep the area adequately dampened without having to sprinkle it every couple of hours or so. The same would apply to planting ground covers from flats – now is the time.

Lawns will do better if the mower blades are raised so that they are at least two inches high. Closely cut lawns don’t create much shade to the ground allowing it to dry much more quickly. That, in turn, requires more frequent and longer irrigating cycles for the lawn to stay nice and green. This will help to conserve water.

Summer annuals that provide reliable color through the summer will be becoming more available soon. Marigolds, alyssum, petunias, and other summer annuals will be coming in regularly soon. As the season progresses, they will be more plentiful

Fruit trees that we potted at the beginning of January will be out and ready for sale, the weekend of April 10th. They have been slower rooting than I anticipated because the weather has been cool. The nights have anyway, so things have not rooted fast. We will get them set up for sale this week. Some may still need more time to root, so we will be determining that this week.
Please understand that we are selling these on a first come first serve basis only. We cannot reserve over the phone or in any other way. Sorry for the inconvenience of this policy. First come first serve only.

Hopefully you can get out and enjoy the nice weather in the garden
Thank you all for your continued support and we hope to see you soon.

Jeff


March 2021 Newsletter

After a dry February and dry start to March, it looks like things are starting to change to a bit more wet this weekend and next week. Very good news. Hopefully it will be some good rain which will be welcome for all the bare root fruit trees that were planted in January and February. Be ready to start fertilizing those newly planted fruit trees when they leaf out.

It is now time to get ready to start fertilizing soon. As soon as deciduous trees and shrubs have their full set of leaves, you should give them their first fertilizing of the year. A balanced fertilizer works well for most things. Use a rhododendron, camellia, azalea fertilizer for your acid loving plants. Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons after they are done blooming. Same thing for camellias. Citrus should use a citrus fertilizer.

Roses should be leafing out now. If you have not pruned back roses, it is still a good time to do it. If you have any that are really large cause of neglected pruning during prior seasons, prune them down now. Prune roses down to 12 to 24 inches tall with several strong canes left and an open center.

Be sure to start spraying roses with a fungicide now. We have had a wet winter and you don’t want to let the fungus problems get going. We use Neem Oil every two weeks here at the nursery on the roses to prevent aphids and fungus problems.

It’s time to start fertilizing roses as well. Roses are heavy feeders. They should be fertilized about every 6 weeks. Use a rose food or you can use a balanced all purpose fertilizer as well. I use a combination of the two on my roses and it works very well.

SPRING VEGETABLE PLANTING

We will have some of our summer vegetable starts after the 6th of March for those who are ready to plant them now. We also have the greenhouse full of vegetable starts that will be ready for planting the first week of April, which honestly is the better time to plant your summer vegetables. A good rule of thumb is to wait till overnight lows are consistently 50 degrees or higher and the ground is no longer cold to the touch. Prep your soil well before you plant. Add bone meal or oyster shell to the soil along with the vegetable fertilizer when you are prepping the soil. Bone meal adds phosphorous for root development and supplements calcium. Oyster shell adds calcium. Calcium will help to prevent blossom end rot. I use organic fertilizer on my vegetable garden. I use bone meal for phosphorous, and oyster shell for calcium , and tomato and vegetable fertilizer and kelp meal. Kelp meal helps to prevent diseases. About half way through the season I re apply fertilizer and bone meal.

It is not quite spring yet and the nights are still cool. We will be getting new inventory in regularly though, ready for planting in anticipation of spring. Spring flowers like petunias and marigolds are not in yet. Probably in the next few weeks.

Recycle your used containers. We gladly take back all used nursery containers. We re-use them in our growing operations. Don’t send them to the land fill. They can be dropped off here anytime during our regular business hours. Let us know if you have them with you when you come in, and we can unload them for you.

A note on our hours. We are open 9 to 5 Monday through Saturday and 10 to 4 Sunday.

We hope to see you soon.

Jeff


February 2021 Newsletter

Bare root season continues through February. The selection of bare root fruit trees and roses is still good. The recent rain has made the ground moist for digging and the weather has turned cool again to keep the trees dormant, so it is an excellent time to plant bare root fruit trees. At the end of the month we pot up what has not been sold bare root and then the price goes up. Take advantage of bare root prices and selection and get your fruit trees in now.

Final Dormant Spraying is Due This Month

The third and final dormant spraying to prevent leaf curl is due this month. Don’t delay. The final spray should be done before you see color in the flower buds. Usually Valentine’s Day is a good date to use but watch your trees. If buds are swelling before that, get the spray done. Use copper and horticultural oil together in your sprayer. I spray all the deciduous trees in the orchard. It prevents leaf curl and also helps to prevent fireblight on pears and apples, although not completely, and greatly reduces the aphid and insect problems on all the trees. The third and final spraying is the most important one. You should have done two applications already and the final one should be done before flowers come out. We will be spraying the nursery orchard for the final time next week. We got behind on the first two so the second was applied last week and ideally we want at least two weeks between spray applications. So if you are behind on getting it done, get the second done now, so you can get the third on before the trees start to bloom. We have a period of dry right now so take advantage and get it done. Don’t put this off till it is too late.

Also when you are spraying the dormant spray on your fruit trees, do your roses too. Stop the rose diseases before they start.

Fertilizing

It will be time to start fertilizing towards the end of the month or early next month. When the plants come out of dormancy, it is time to start fertilizing. Evergreen plants can be fertilized as soon as the threat of hard freezes is past. So later this month. Use a balanced fertilizer on most plants. Use citrus fertilizer on your citrus. Use rhododendron azalea camellia fertilizer on azaleas and camellias after they are done blooming. Fertilize three times after bloom each thirty days apart and then no more for the year. Gardenias benefit from monthly fertilizing during the growing season. Use a rose food on roses or a balanced fertilizer on them and do them monthly during the growing and blooming season for consistent blooms. We have a good selection of fertilizers. Much of it organic fertilizers. Which I prefer to use.

Weeds are going to start growing in earnest soon.

You can spray with weed killer now to kill what is coming up and mix pre-emergent with the weed killer to stop the weeds from growing back so quickly, I’ve been using a propane torch on weeds. It’s working well for me. Less chemicals.

Now would be a good time to plant winter vegetables. If you plant them now they will give you production for a couple of months for sure and maybe longer depending on the temperatures. When we get some warm days in late February and early March, it’s still a bit too early to put out spring vegetables. We will get spring vegetables, some time in late March or early April, depending on weather. Even though it’s warm in the day, the nights should be 50 degrees or higher consistently before putting your summer vegetables in the ground. If you are thinking about starting summer vegetables inside from seed, probably want to get them started soon so they are ready to put out in spring.

Citrus we will be stocking in larger volume in March. March is the best time to plant citrus since we are usually past any hard freezes. Be sure to protect citrus that you plant now if we have freezing temperatures.

With the cool nights, the bare root trees are staying dormant, and like I said earlier, it is the time to plant them. Once we pot them, the price goes up and they are not immediately available, They have to root into the container before we sell them.

We hope to see you soon,
Jeff

Hours: 9-5 Monday through Saturday, 10-4 Sunday. 530-743-4856


BARE ROOT SEASON CONTINUES, FRUIT TREE PRUNING CLASSES CANCELLED

BARE ROOT SEASON CONTINUES UNTIL THE END OF FEBRUARY.

UNFORTUNATELY, WE WILL NOT HAVE FRUIT TREE PRUNING CLASSES THIS YEAR.

WE ARE OPEN OUR REGULAR HOURS, MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 9-5, SUNDAY 10-4.

Bare root season continues until the end of February. The selection of fruit trees is still good. Don’t wait till the end of the season if you want a good selection to choose from. We are open Monday through Saturday 9-5, Sundays 10-4. Rain or shine.

Unfortunately, Due to the current Covid 19 situation and restrictions, we must cancel all fruit tree pruning classes this year. We apologize for the inconvenience.
Very Sorry,
Jeff



Bald Mountain Nursery, January 2021 Newsletter and Fruit Tree Pruning Class Dates

Bare root season is now in full swing. We have our fruit trees in stock now and are selling briskly. Bare root shade trees will be in within a couple of weeks and a few more miscellaneous fruit trees. Blueberries, cane berries, figs, and pomegranates in pots are in as well.

Most standard sized fruit trees and semi-dwarf fruit trees are $26.00. There are exceptions. Complete price lists for bare root fruit trees and bare root shade trees are available at the nursery or via email by request.

Bare root season goes now through the end of February. The selection of fruit trees is very large, but don’t wait till the end of the season to shop. Once a variety is sold out, it is gone until next year’s bare root season. At the end of February, the trees that are left, which should be few, are potted up and sold later in the year and the price is higher after we pot them.

We also still have our full regular inventory for whatever you might need.

Bare root roses are now available as well.

We have a large selection of roses to choose from. We sell them bare root until the end of February and after that they are sold only in pots.

  • Roses are $18.00 bare root or $23.00 in pots.
  • 36″ Tree Roses are $48.00 each, staked and in pots.
  • 24″ Tree Roses are $35.00 each, staked and in pots.
  • 36″ Twofer Tree Roses $52.00 (Two varieties on one trunk)

Again, complete list is available via email or can be picked up at the nursery.

It’s time for the second dormant spraying on your fruit trees if you have not done it already. Use copper mixed with horticultural oil and spray the entire tree including the trunk. If you have not done any spraying yet, get one done now and wait a couple of weeks and do the second and then the third and final spraying should be done in February just before bud break. I spray all trees in the orchard to help kill overwintering insects and to help prevent diseases such as leaf curl and fireblight. It helps to reduce aphid problems in the spring as well.

Onion Plants Will be Arriving the second week of January

We will have the following:

  • Candy (Yellow Globe Shape, Sweet, Hybrid)
  • Red Candy Apple (Deep Red, Flat Globe Shape, Sweet, Hybrid)
  • Walla Walla (Yellow, Semi Flat Shape, Sweet)
  • Yellow Spanish (Globe Shape, Mild)
  • Red Wing (Red, Globe Shape, Slightly Pungent)
  • Red Torpedo Tropea (Red, Torpedo Shape, Sweet)

Onions are $6.50 per bunch. There are 50-75 plants per bunch.

Seed Potatoes will be in soon as well. We are just waiting for shipping at this point, which will depend on the weather in transit. But I expect them within the next two weeks.

Asparagus and rhubarb will ship next week. However, please call ahead as it seems shipping is taking longer than usual these days.

We will be having our fruit tree pruning classes later this month.

Fruit Tree Pruning Class Dates

  • January 23rd and 24th @ 10am
  • January 30th and 31st @ 10 am

All classes are free of charge. No reservation is necessary. Free coffee and hot chocolate is available at the classes.

I will demonstrate pruning of fruit trees and also will demonstrate the pruning of roses for the late winter early spring season. The demonstration usually lasts about an hour or so and I will answer any questions you may have. If we have rain on any of the dates, we will reschedule since we have them here at the nursery orchard, and prune the trees in the orchard.

We hope to see you soon for your bare root or other planting needs and at one or more of the fruit tree pruning classes.

Jeff