August Newsletter

August is a good time to start planning for the fall planting and if it is not too warm you can get a jump on the fall planting season. Looks like we will be in for some nice weather for a couple of weeks starting this week. Nice weather to get a jump on fall planting. Remember that fall is the best time for planting trees and shrubs. Especially trees.
I know the ground is hard after the summer but if you start a hole and soak it and then dig a little more and soak it, pretty soon the hole you need for the tree or shrub is done and it is a fairly painless way to dig a hole.

Watering and Mulching
Continue to water established plants deeply for the balance of the summer and into fall. Check the mulch you added at the beginning of the summer, and if it is getting thin, add more to keep the moisture you are applying in the ground.

Late Summer & Fall Planting
We have a very large selection of trees and shrubs for fall planting in stock as always. If you want to get a jump start and plant now, just be sure to keep the plant moist for the rest of the summer and into the fall. Water it once a day after you plant for the first week and then every two to three days for the balance of the season and it will do well.

Fall Fertilizing
Fall fertilizing should be done in September. The weather will be cooler and the days shorter so even when we get some warm days the heat does not last as long. This is the time for fall fertilizing. Trees and shrubs will benefit from a balanced fertilizer. Citrus should be fertilized with a citrus ferilizer.
When fertilizing, water the plant the day before very well. Then fertilize the following day and water in well. Never fertilize a dry plant. It will burn it and can possibly kill it.

Grass Seed
Grass seed for lawns or pasture or overseeding should be done in late August or September. Get it planted while it is still warm but not baking hot. The seed will germinate quickly and it will need to be kept moist while it gets established. Don’t wait too late in the season or it won’t get well enough established before the winter and may have a tough time getting through the winter. I’m ordering new stock of grass seed which should be in next week, so we will have a good supply for all planting needs.

Winter Vegetables
We will start getting winter vegetables and winter annuals in September. Watch the weather. If it’s too warm it will cause them to bolt. But get them in early in the fall so that they get developed and start producing for you before it gets cold.

Special Orders
If you would like us to special order items for you that we may not have in stock, we can do that.We can usually have it within a week, sometimes two. We do need payment in advance on all special orders.

The weather this summer has been very nice. Very few 100’s, mostly mid 90’s and cool mornings. The overall temperatures will be getting even cooler soon.The hottest part of the summer is very close to behind us. Start getting ready to plant for fall now.

We hope to see you soon.
Jeff


July 2019 Newsletter

ONE GALLON PERENNIALS ON SALE – $4.95 EA. SEE LIST OF VARIETIES BELOW. ALL IN FULL BLOOM NOW. ADD COLOR TO YOUR LANDSCAPE. PERENNIALS COME BACK YEAR AFTER YEAR AND BLOOM IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER.

This year has been a very nice spring and early summer. Any hot periods have only lasted a couple of days and then it cools back down. Very nice weather for your landscape whether new plantings or established plantings.

With summer here and longer days, it gives a lot of time for gardening. Do your planting early in the day or in the evening if possible so it is easier on you. Plants will handle the transplant just fine but do make sure you give additional water for the first week or two after planting to make sure it is kept well hydrated. Also be sure to mulch to hold the moisture in the ground. Water the new planting well, and then water in with Superthrive mixed in water. This will eliminate any transplant shock that may occur. Keep the plant moist but not soggy while it is getting it’s root system established. If you are using a timed drip system that runs for very short periods, you will need to supplement with a hose periodically. A slow trickle for an hour or two works well about once or twice a week along with the drip system. Mulch well around your trees and shrubs to keep the moisture in the ground. Use 3″ of mulch.

On the subject of watering whether newly planted or established plantings, when there is a spike in temperatures coming, be sure to give extra water. Make sure all shrubs and trees are well watered going into the temperature spike rather than waiting till afterwards. Sometimes the stress on the plant will be too much if too dry. Signs of not enough water will include crisp edges of leaves, wilting in the heat and perhaps shedding some foliage soon after extreme heat. If you see any of these symptoms, you probably should increase the amount of water or mulch or perhaps a combination of the two. If you see any stress on your plants, treat them with Superthrive mixed with water. This product eliminates transplant shock and also revives plants under stress. We do all of our transplanting here at the nursery during the summer months and we use Superthrive on all of our transplants and cuttings that we do.

Crape myrtles are now starting to bloom here and in landscapes. They love the heat. Although crape myrtle is a very drought tolerant plant, it will bloom much nicer with at least one good deep soak a week. Also spray for aphids if you see sticky shiny leaves. Use neem oil or an insecticide or insecticidal soap. Any of these are better sprayed in the evening so that there is no damage to the leaves from the heat of the day.

Vegetable gardens probably need fertilizing about now. If you fertilized when you planted, it’s about time to give the garden another fertilizing and then again sometime in August to keep your plants healthy and productive. Use a vegetable fertilizer for this. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers as they will cause growth at the expense of production. Organic vegetable fertilizers work well because they feed slowly and there is less chance of burning the plants in warm weather. Mulch your garden too, to hold the moisture in and use less water. If you are experiencing blossom end rot on your tomatoes and squash, add calcium to your soil. We carry oyster shell and a liquid calcium called Foli-Cal. The liquid calcium is used as a foliar spray directly on the leaves of the plants.

Watch for tomato worms. If you see them, use BT or Monterey Garden Insect Spray to get rid of them. Both are organic controls. Or just pull them off and get rid of them.

Hopefully the weather continues nice and mild for the summer as it has up to this point for the most part. Get out early and enjoy the cool of the morning and do some gardening. It’s a great way to start the day.

Perennials On Sale
Crape Myrtle, 3 varieties, Lantana – 6 varieties, Yarrow – 3 varieties, Verbena – 2 varieties, Rudbeckia – 3 varieties, Gaillardia – 4 varieties, Gaura – white and pink, Coreopsis – 4 varieties, Salvia – 4 varieties.
Nice selection. All blooming. Most drought tolerant and deer resistant.

We will be closed on The 4th of July.

We hope to see you soon,
Jeff


June 2019 Newsletter

June looks like it is starting off very nice. The rest of the spring has been nice although a bit more rain than normal. I’ve tracked 42″ of rain this year. Our average here is 26″-28″. It has meant no hot days all spring. Mostly cool and nice spring weather. Great spring planting weather.

WATERING

Watering becomes much more important to make sure it is done well as the weather warms up. When watering trees, be sure to give established trees a deep soak once or twice a week depending on temperatures. Newly planted trees should be watered daily for the first week or so then cut back to about two or three times per week. Do not give short daily watering. Give good deep soaks. A good rule to use is to give 10 gallons of water per week for every inch of trunk diameter and be sure to soak to a depth of at least 12 inches. On larger trees you’ll want to soak to a depth of 2 to 3 feet. Use slow drip and let it run long enough to soak deep. Add 3″ of mulch around your trees and shrubs to hold the moisture in the ground and not allow it to evaporate. Mulching garden beds and vegetable gardens should also be done. Deep soaking and mulching encourages a deep healthy root system so that trees and shrubs and new plantings can go through hot spells with no adverse effects on the plant and you will use less water.

FERTILIZING

It’s time for your second fertilizing of the season if you have not done it already. Use a balanced fertilizer for most trees and shrubs. Be sure to water your plants well the day before you are going to fertilize and then fertilize and water the fertilizer in well. DO NOT fertilize on a very hot day. It is very easy to burn plants with fertilizer if you fertilize on a very hot day. Nitrogen portion of the fertilizer moves with water and plants are moving lots of water in the heat. Fertilize in the evening and look for temperatures in low to mid 90’s as a high or less for fertilizing. Fertilize citrus trees monthly through the growing season. Use a citrus and avocado fertilizer. Rhododendrons azaleas and camellias are about due for their third and final fertilizing. They are fertilized 3 times, each 30 days apart, after they are done blooming.

JUNE SPECIAL

#1 GALLON PERENNIALS $4.95 EACH

Yarrow, Rudbeckia, Coreopsis, Shasta Daisy, Gaura, Verbena, Gaillardia, Teucrium, Lantana, Salvia, Santa Barbara Daisy, Agastache.

CITRUS LEAF MINER

Citrus Leaf Miner can be a problem for citrus trees. It looks a bit like snail tracks in the leaf of the citrus tree and affects primarily the new growth. The new growth curls and looks shriveled with lines looking like snail trails in them. Treat this with Monterey Garden Insect Spray. We carry it. The active ingredient is Spinosad. It is OMRI listed for organic gardening. It is absorbed into the leaf and kills the leaf miner. We spray and then wait a few days and prune out the affected area. Treatment can be done weekly. This will take care of the problem.

MULCH MULCH MULCH

Be sure to mulch all new plantings and re mulch older plants. Use 3″ of mulch around your plants. Keep the mulch away from the immediate base of the plant. Mulching keeps the ground and roots of your plants cooler and holds the moisture in the soil. New plantings will do much better, no matter what the temperature, if they are watered well and mulch is used. You can cut your water use by up to 50% by mulching and your plants will do so much better. You can use shredded bark or chunk bark or compost or even gravel will work as mulch but gravel will reflect heat onto your plants so for some plant If you aren’t mulching, I would strongly advise that you do. Your plants will get through hot spells with no adverse effects, this is not a good choice. With mulching, you can plant any time of the year with no adverse effects. IT REALLY HELPS!

BLOSSOM END ROT

If you experience blossom end rot on tomatoes and squash, you want to add calcium to the soil. The bottom of the tomato and the ends of the squash will shrivel and become brown or black. If you add calcium at the first sign of this, the problem will be corrected fairly quickly. We carry bone meal, and oyster shell lime. The bone meal and oyster shell are organic products. We also have a product called Foli Cal which is a foliar spray calcium which will also correct blossom end rot.

APHIDS AND FUNGUS PROBLEMS

Aphids will be bad as the weather warms. Some problems have already started. For control of aphids, Neem Oil works well and is an organic pesticide. It also works as a fungicide so it does double duty. Use it every two weeks on roses and control aphids and fungus such as powdery mildew, rust and blackspot. It will also control aphids and powdery mildew on Crape Myrtles. We also have a product called Monterey Take Down Garden Spray. It is not organic but it works very well for controlling aphids and other insects. It is pyrethrin and canola oil. With all insecticides, be careful not to spray when bees are present. Better to spray late evening or very early morning when bees are not active, to avoid injuring bees.

HOURS ARE 9 TO 5 MONDAY – SATURDAY, 10-4 SUNDAY.

We are open everyday. Monday through Saturday from 9 to 5 and Sunday from 10 to 4..

We’ve had a very wet spring this year which the plants really have liked. The inventory is full and looking good. All of our plants are fully acclimated to our climate. We don’t protect them under shade cloth so they can go into your landscape and not miss a beat because they are used to the weather. We do keep shade loving plants in the shade here at the nursery. If for some reason we don’t have what you are looking for, we can order it and usually have it here in a week.

This time of year here at the nursery we start doing lots of cleaning and maintenance in our growing ground. We shift plants from smaller pots to larger pots to grow. we will be cleaning mats and we will have many one of a kind or overstock items going into the parking lot reduced price area over the next few weeks. Be sure to check it out when you come in. You may find a great price on a plant you could use.

Enjoy this beautiful spring weather we are having.

We hope to see you soon.

Jeff


Avocados Arrived 4/17/19

We just received our Avocados. We have Bacon, Mexicola, Zutano, all of which are cold hardy for our area. Mexicola cross pollinates with Bacon or Zutano. Zutano and Bacon do not cross pollinate with each other. Trees are semi self fruitful but having A Mexicola with one of the other varieties for cross pollination will produce larger crops of fruit. All varieties produce fruit.

Avocados need good drainage and some afternoon shade in the hottest part of the summer.

We also have 5 Hass avocados. They are not cold hardy for our area but some people have had success if they are planted in an area that does not get hard freezes. If you want to try a Hass, you must find an area that is protected from freeze. Most normal areas around here are not good. Choose your location carefully if you want to grow a Hass avocado in our area.

Avocados are $36.00 each.


April 2019 Newsletter

 

February and March have been pretty wet this year to say the least. according to my rain gauge, we have had 37.75″ of rain to date here at the nursery. Our average annual rainfall is 22″-24″ here. And looks like a bit more on the way. The late season moisture is keeping things green and the ground soft (although at times kind of muddy) and making for excellent gardening weather as soon as the rain stops. My long range forecast for the next 15 days shows the warmest day to be 72 and mostly in the 60″s. Perfect weather for planting and enjoying, especially when the sun does come out. Deciduous trees and shrubs are starting to leaf out. A bit late this year. The cool weather is nice. Looks like the rain will be scattered after this week. Not deluges.

Many things are needing to be done in the landscape during April.

Rhododendrons should have the flower trusses that are spent snapped off at the base as soon as they fade. Don’t wait until all the flowers have finished blooming to remove them because the plant will expend energy making seeds that would be better used to add new foliage when it has completed the bloom cycle. Fertilize them right after flowering with a rhododendron azalea camellia fertilizer now and then again in 30 days and a final time 30 days after that. The same treatment applies to azaleas when they are done blooming.

Daffodils that were blooming earlier are now done here at the nursery. After they are done blooming, don’t cut off the leaves while they are still green. While the leaves are green, fertilize them with a high phosphorous fertilizer or one labeled “bulb food”. They bloomed early this year but here at the nursery the leaves are still green and the fertilizing can still be done. Hopefully it is the same with yours. The old leaves can be pulled up when they have turned yellow or brown.

If you haven’t fertilized yet, it is time to do it. With the moist ground and the cool temperatures it is an excellent time to fertilize your landscape. An all purpose fertilizer will work for trees and shrubs. Citrus fertilizer for citrus trees. And an acid fertilizer for rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias as well as blueberries.

Keep on top of the aphid problems and the fungus problems which might be worse than usual following a wet March. Spray with Neem oil or an insecticidal soap if you have aphids. Neem oil works as a fungicide too.

I would recommend you start spraying your roses for fungus problems now before they appear. With the wet spring we are having fungus will be a problem. Use Neem oil or a fungicide on them on a regular basis to prevent the fungus from getting started. Neem oil will also act as an insecticide and prevent the aphid problem. We are starting to spray weekly here.

If you planted any bare root fruit trees this year or last year, the trunks of the trees should be painted with white tree trunk paint so that the young, thin bark does not become sunburned and cracked allowing insects to damage the cambium layer which carries nutrients to all parts of the tree. Do not use an oil based paint. A light colored, water based latex paint diluted by 50% works well. Also, due to the cool March, some trees are starting to leaf out late. Don’t give up yet on them. Apples and Cherries in particular are slower than other trees to break dormancy and with the cooler spring may be late leafing out. They have not started here yet but should in a week or so. So depending on where you live, may be still dormant.

It will soon be the optimal time to plant your vegetable garden because the soil will be warming up more quickly as the night time temperatures are not so cold. We have a large selection of vegetable starts and seeds now in for planting and get restocked every week on Wednesdays and will continue to stay well stocked on vegetables through the spring season . Seedling plants as well as seeds should do well in the warmer soil, so plan your gardens. The root vegetables such as radishes, carrots (we suggest the short stubbier carrots in the areas with heavy clay), turnips, and beets should do well, too. When planting corn in your veggie garden, keep in mind that the pollen transfer is by the wind, so corn should be planted in blocks of parallel rows – not in a single row. If you run your rows north south, then that is the prevailing direction of winds and will help with pollination. In preparing your garden use a vegetable fertilizer and be sure to add calcium to prevent blossom end rot on tomatoes and squash. I also add kelp meal and bone meal which helps with disease prevention (the kelp meal) and helps with faster root development (the bone meal). Mulch your vegetable garden with compost or straw which will help control weeds and reduce the water you use. With a good layer of mulch, you can give a good soak to your garden about once a week during the cooler spring and maybe twice a week during the hot part of the summer. I used straw from cleaning the barn on my garden and it works very well. One customer said she used alfalfa as mulch and you get the benefit of the calcium and nitrogen as the hay breaks down. Something to consider.

Lawns should be fertilized with a lawn food, which will be high in nitrogen. You may want to over seed your lawn area to thicken it up a bit, and that can be done as long as your fertilizer does not have a weed control incorporated in the formula which would keep seed from sprouting. It is also a good time for starting a new lawn – before the weather heats up making it difficult to keep the area adequately dampened without having to sprinkle it every couple of hours or so. The same would apply to planting ground covers from flats – now is the time.

Lawns will do better if the mower blades are raised so that they are at least two inches high. Closely cut lawns don’t create much shade to the ground allowing it to dry much more quickly. That, in turn, requires more frequent and longer irrigating cycles for the lawn to stay nice and green. This will help to conserve water.

Summer annuals that provide reliable color through the summer are becoming more available now. Marigolds, alyssum, petunias, and other summer annuals are starting to come in. As the season progresses, they will be more plentiful

We have fruit trees that were potted in January now available. They are in paper pots so can be planted pot and all. Assorted varieties. $32.00 each.

We are having a very nice and somewhat wet spring this year. Take advantage of the moist ground and cool but not cold weather and get some planting done. Enjoy the spring in your landscape and garden.

We will be closed Easter Sunday, 4/21/19.

We hope to see you soon.

Jeff


Organic Vegetable Gardening Class 2019

Organic Vegetable Gardening Classes. This Saturday and Sunday, March 30th and 31st. Both days @ 10 AM.

We will cover how to prep your vegetable beds with organic fertilizers and mulch to be ready for planting your vegetables. We will also discuss organic insect controls and watering techniques. We will have a large assortment of tomatoes and other vegetables for planting if you are ready to start now. Spring vegetable season is just beginning. We will have large selections of tomatoes and other summer vegetables starting now and through the season.



March 2019 Newsletter

seed potatoes

WE ARE EXTENDING BARE ROOT SEASON FOR TWO MORE WEEKS. WE STILL HAVE A REASONABLE SELECTION OF FRUIT TREES AVAILABLE BARE ROOT. DON’T WAIT TILL TOO LATE TO BUY BARE ROOT FRUIT TREES. THE COOLER WEATHER IS KEEPING THEM DORMANT SO WE CAN EXTEND THE SEASON A LITTLE LONGER. ONCE WE POT THEM UP, THE PRICE GOES UP. TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE EXTENDED SEASON AND GET BARE ROOT FRUIT TREES NOW.

February has been a bit wet this year and March is starting off a bit wet as well. Winter is hanging on, but since the first day of spring is not till the 20th, I guess it’s not unreasonable. Lots of rain to start off the month. My rain total for the winter up through the end of February is 32.5″ so far since October here at the nursery. Last year at this point we were at 25 inches for the same period, and the prior year was 38″.

It is now time to get ready to start fertilizing soon. As soon as deciduous trees and shrubs have their full set of leaves, you should give them their first fertilizing of the year. A balanced fertilizer works well for most things. Use a rhododendron, camellia, azalea fertilizer for your acid loving plants. Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons after they are done blooming. Same thing for camellias. Citrus should use a citrus fertilizer.

Some citrus may have suffered some damage from the freezes we’ve had. If you have that problem, I would suggest treating them with Superthrive. It will help them to get past the damage. Start fertilizing as soon as the danger of frost is past. I think it will be safe in another week or two. Most likely we are past hard freezes. Fertilize citrus monthly through the growing season.

Seed potatoes are now available. We have Red, Russet, Yukon Gold and Kenebec. They sell for $2.50 a pound. If you’ve never grown seed potatoes, they are very easy to do. And the potatoes you get when you grow your own are much better than the ones you buy at the store. To plant them, cut them into pieces with two eyes per piece. Let the pieces you cut dry enough to scab over the cut. Plant the pieces in the soil about 8 to 12 inches deep and add the dirt back over as they grow and even mound up as the plants grow. The roots under ground produce the potatoes.

Roses should be leafing out now. If you have not pruned back roses, it is still a good time to do it. If you have any that are really large cause of neglected pruning during prior seasons, prune them down now. Prune roses down to 12 to 24 inches tall with several strong canes left and an open center.
Be sure to start spraying roses with a fungicide now. We have had a wet winter and you don’t want to let the fungus problems get going. We use Neem Oil every two weeks here at the nursery on the roses to prevent aphids and fungus problems.
It’s time to start fertilizing roses as well. Roses are heavy feeders. They should be fertilized about every 6 weeks. Use a rose food or you can use a balanced all purpose fertilizer as well. I use a combination of the two on my roses and it works very well.

SPRING VEGETABLE PLANTING

We will have vegetable starts in a few weeks depending on weather. As soon as we get a few warm days, we will have requests for summer vegetable starts. It really is too early to put them in now. We will wait a couple of weeks or more before we will be carrying them. Maybe longer depending on weather. The rule of thumb is to wait till overnight lows are consistently 50 degrees or higher and the ground is no longer cold to the touch. You can start seeds indoors now and you can start prepping the soil now. Add bone meal or oyster shell to the soil along with the vegetable fertilizer when you are prepping the soil. Bone meal adds phosphorous for root development and supplements calcium. Oyster shell adds calcium. Calcium will help to prevent blossom end rot. We also have calcium nitrate which can be added to help prevent it. I use organic fertilizer on my vegetable garden. I use bone meal and oyster for calcium and phosphorous, and tomato and vegetable fertilizer and kelp meal. Kelp meal helps to prevent diseases. About half way through the season I re apply fertilizer and bone meal.

We will be having an organic vegetable gardening class on March 30th and 31st. I will send out email reminders for that. We will be having a class about growing Blueberries in containers on March 16th. Classes will be at 10 am at the nursery. I will send out reminders ahead of time. The 23rd and 24th are the Yuba City Home and Garden Show. We will be there.

Don’t forget daylight savings time begins March 10th.

A note on our hours. We are open 9 to 5 Monday through Saturday and 10 to 4 Sunday.

We hope to see you soon.

Jeff


February 2019 Newsletter

Bare root season continues through February. The selection of bare root fruit trees and roses is still very good. The rain this year has been spaced out fairly and the weather has stayed cool to keep the trees dormant so it is an excellent time to plant bare root fruit trees. At the end of the month we pot up what has not been sold bare root and then the price goes up. Take advantage of bare root prices and selection and get your fruit trees in now.

Final Dormant Spraying is Due This Month

The third and final dormant spraying to prevent leaf curl is due this month. Don’t delay. Get it done before the trees bloom. I spray all the deciduous trees in the orchard. It prevents leaf curl and also helps to prevent fireblight on pears and apples, although not completely, and greatly reduces the aphid and insect problems on all the trees. The third and final spraying is the most important one. You should have done two applications already and the final one should be done before flowers come out. We will be spraying the nursery orchard for the final time this week. In between the rain it looks like Don’t put this off till it is too late.

Also when you are spraying the dormant spray on your fruit trees, do your roses too. Stop the rose diseases before they start.

It will be time to start fertilizing towards the end of the month or early next month. When the plants come out of dormancy, it is time to start fertilizing. Evergreen plants can be fertilized as soon as the threat of hard freezes is past. So later this month. Use a balanced fertilizer on most plants. Use citrus fertilizer on your citrus. Use rhododendron azalea camellia fertilizer on azaleas and camellias after they are done blooming. Fertilize three times after bloom each thirty days apart and then no more for the year. Gardenias benefit from monthly fertilizing during the growing season. Use a rose food on roses or a balanced fertilizer on them and do them monthly during the growing and blooming season for consistent blooms. We have a good selection of fertilizers. Much of it organic fertilizers. Which I prefer to use.

Watch for freezing temperatures. This week is is forecast to get cold early in the week. Protect your citrus and any other frost sensitive plants with frost cloth or a sheet. Don’t use plastic as it does not insulate. Plastic sitting on the plant will transfer the cold directly to the plant. We have frost cloth in packages of 12’x10′ for $13.89. We also have a roll 12′ wide by whatever length you might need. That sells for $1.00 per lineal foot.

Weeds are going to start growing in earnest soon. You can spray with weed killer now to kill what is coming up and mix pre-emergent with the weed killer to stop the weeds from growing back so quickly, I’ve been using a propane torch on weeds. It’s working well for me. Less chemicals. We also have this year a non chemical weed killer called Burnout. one quart makes 1 gallon of spray and will cover 1500 sq. ft. I got it on a special buy and we are selling it for $12.99 per quart. Suggested retail price is $23.19.

When we get some warm days in late February and early March, it’s still a bit too early to put out spring vegetables.We will get spring vegetables, some time in late March or early April, depending on weather. Even though it’s warm in the day, the nights should be 50 degrees or higher consistently before putting your summer vegetables in the ground. If you are thinking about starting summer vegetables inside from seed, probably want to get them started soon so they are ready to put out in spring.

Citrus we are stocking now and avocados are on order and should be in late February or early March. Be sure to protect citrus that you plant now if we have freezing temperatures.

With the cool nights, the bare root trees are staying dormant and like I said earlier, it is the time to plant them. Once we pot them, the price goes up and they are not immediately available, They have to root into the container before we sell them. GET BARE ROOT FRUIT TREES NOW.

We hope to see you soon,
Jeff

Hours: 9-5 Monday through Saturday, 10-4 Sunday. 530-743-4856

Remember
Bare Root Season Goes Till the End Of the Month


FREE FRUIT TREE PRUNING CLINICS THIS SATURDAY AND SUNDAY 10AM. TWO MORE NEXT WEEKEND.

THE FIRST OF FOUR FRUIT TREE PRUNING CLINICS WILL BE THIS SATURDAY JANUARY 19TH AT 10 AM IN THE NURSERY ORCHARD. LOOKS LIKE NO RAIN SATURDAY.

SECOND ONE IS SUNDAY THE 20TH AT 10 AM. IF IT IS RAINING, WE WILL RESCHEDULE.

ALSO NEXT SATURDAY AND SUNDAY THE 26TH AND 27TH AT 10 AM EACH DAY.

FOUR CHANCES TO ATTEND THE PRUNING CLINICS. SHOULD BE ABLE TO WORK INTO ALL SCHEDULES.
CLINICS ARE ALL THE SAME, SO PICK ONE THAT FITS YOUR SCHEDULE, OR ATTEND MORE THAN ONE.

LEARN HOW TO PRUNE YOUR FRUIT TREES. WE WILL COVER PEACHES, NECTARINES, PEARS, PLUOTS, APPLES, PLUMS, APRICOTS, CHERRIES.

WE WILL HOLD THE CLASSES IN OUR ORCHARD HERE AT THE NURSERY SO PLEASE DRESS ACCORDINGLY. DRESS FOR DAMP GROUND AND COOL WEATHER.

NO REGISTRATION NECESSARY.
FREE COFFEE, TEA, AND HOT CHOCOLATE DURING THE CLINICS AND THROUGHOUT BARE ROOT SEASON.
We will also cover rose pruning, dormant spraying, and planting bare root trees and answer any questions you may have.

Bare Root season continues through the end of February. Great selection of bare root fruit trees and roses and shade trees. Blueberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, all available now as well and onion starter plants. And of course our full line of shrubs, trees, and plants.

Hours: 9 to 5 Monday through Saturday, 10-4 Sunday. 
530-743-4856
Hope to see you soon.
Jeff